Considering a Bathroom Installation
The target here is mainly on bathroom installation, particularly on shower or bathtub installation, bathtub enclosure and bathtub surround installation. Before anything else, let us look at some common errors and recommended guidelines included in bathroom installation.
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Most popular Mistakes and Guidelines for lavatory Installation
There are a number of common errors observed from almost all of the bathroom installation. Here is a list of those errors:
• Ignoring or violating local code restrictions
• Employing pipes which are too small
• Attaching copper to galvanized without using a brass or dielectric fitting backward and forward
• Not considering Teflon tape or pipe compound especially at threaded joints
• Not installing an air gap filling for fixtures
• Not properly aligning tubing into fitting or stop valves
• Cutting supply stub outs quite short to install the shutoff valves onto following the finished wall is place
• Not leveling fixtures when setting them up
Now, after knowing those errors, I think it is best for you to know a few of the standards developed by the government for those who are thinking of your bathroom improvement. Note that these standards are highly applicable whether you are planning of designing your bathroom for wheelchair or perhaps to make the room more comfortable and functional for anybody with limited mobility. Here are several of the recommended guidelines:
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Applying your entrance in to the room, I know that you want to make sure that the door reaches least 32 inches wide. If you find that the doorway is located off a hallway plus you've got a wheelchair that has to turn from the hall in the doorway, then the door width has to be adjusted to about 36 inches. Also if possible, avoid locating a threshold in the doorway. However, if a particular threshold is required, you try to choose an appartment one that is no more than ¼ inch high, or possibly one that is beveled on both sides and no greater than ¾ inch high. For those who have a member in the family with limited hand strength, an ordinary door knob can be extremely difficult to grip. So, what is commonly advised is always to select a lever handle, instead of a knob. The height of this handles must be at 48 inches or fewer above the floor.
As opposed to a conventional toilet which can be about 14 to 15 inches above the floor, you can employ accessible toilets that are designed and developed so your seat is between 17 to 19 inches above the floor. For the sink, you might like to make sure that the rim is not any higher than 34 inches above the floor. Aside from that, the sinks should extend out at least 17 inches from your rear wall, and the area under the sink must be opened with a clearance for at least 29 inches beginning from the floor to the bottom with the sink. If in case you desire your sink being installed in a countertop, consider putting n't i more than 2 inches from the side of the counter. Based on some experts, this promotes maximum accessibility. Moreover, you can employ a protective boot in the water lines and trap within the sink to prevent contact. Use a single-handle, lever-style faucet that is easily operated with one fists.
Many homeowners considered the sheet vinyl floors as the best choice. The key reason for this could be its smooth quality and its being easy to clean. However, if you are using a ceramic tile, make an effort to choose large and smooth tiles to lessen the grout lines and a few surface irregularities. Also locate a non-slip surface texture. And, if you're considering floor carpeting, stick to naps that are ½ inch high or fewer.
This is another advice if you are wheelchaired. Well, for you to make a 180-degree turn, a wheelchair needs at the very least 60 inches, that is 5 feet, of clearance. Note that this amount of clear space is oftentimes hard to achieve, but think about a T-shaped space instead. Either side of the T have to be at least 36 inches wide. As outlined by some experts this configuration allows space for a wheelchair so that you can comfortably make a three-point turn as an alternative to having to maneuver in the complete circle. Additionally consideration, try to make pathways to your fixtures at least 36 inches wide. And, in terms of the sink, it will have a clear space looking at it.
Perhaps one of many wonderful features in just about any bathroom is the grab bars. These even increase the risk for bathroom safer and much more convenient for anyone to use. Well, it is worth noting that if you are installing a horizontal grab bar, it should be positioned on the wall behind the bathroom .. You can install one more on the closet sidewall alongside the toilet. Also, the grab bars ought to be placed inside bathtub and also shower enclosures. If you are remodeling or installing new along with the walls in the room are open, make sure to provide wood blocking in the walls. This will allow simplification with the grab bars' attachment.
Okay, enough about those guidelines. Allow us to now proceed to some steps to setup your shower or bathtub.
How to Install Shower and Bathtub
When thinking for installing a shower or bathtub, it's very important to note that the pipes required are the hot as well as cold supply lines, apart from a pipe leading to a shower head. Also, many experts often suggest a blending valve and shower head for the installation, including air chambers.
Usually, the tub or shower fixtures rate reduced fixture units. So they really are often placed on the branch drains and wet or back vented much like the sinks. Accordingly, the two shower stalls and tubs enter in the stack at floor level or below as a result of angle of which the ground drain trap is defined.
When it comes to faucet and shower head assembly, one should observe that it requires an open wall for installation. Also merit consideration is that, bathtubs and shower stalls might need support framing. One of the common ideas this is that a bathtub filled with water is extremely heavy; therefore, you should examine first the dwelling codes, including the framing support before the bathtub installation. There is also a required floor position for a shower stall. Based on some experts, a nominal amount area required is 1,024 square inches, nevertheless, you should also allow 24 inches from the stall itself to another fixture or wall.
Listed below are the basic guidelines:
1. All piping needs to be installed before installing the tub itself.
2. Lower the bathtub into place. This will allow a nonstop flange to fit against the wall studs and rests on 1 x 4 or 2 x 4 supports. In terms of this, don't forget to anchor the tub to the enclosure with nails or screws ensconced over the flanges into the studs.
3. Build the drain connections. This can be achieved by way of attaching the bathtub overflow with the tub drain over the trap, and not beyond it. Be aware that the trap may compression fitting that screw over the arm of the overflow assembly.
4. Run the new and cold water lines to the tub or shower mixing valve where these are attached. You can do this by sweating these into the hot and cold ports with the mixing valve.
5. Operate a pipe up the wall for the shower head. Note however that on top of this pipe, you must sweat on a brass female threaded winged fitting that's nailed or screwed right into a framing support.
6. An item of 1/2" pipe should be extended, however must be in accordance for the instructions provided by the manufacturer, for the tub spout. Also sweat over a male threaded fitting following the pipe or use a brass nipple of the proper length as well as a 1/2" cap.
7. At this time, you will need to have your rough plumbing checked.
8. Restore water pressure and inspect the drain connection, such as the supply pipes for virtually any leaks.
9. Replace the wall with moisture resistant drywall as being a base for your wall covering. Also essential to note is to seal joints involving the wall and your new tub perhaps with silicone caulk. This caulk assists as protection against water seepage.
10. It is now time to install the handles, shower head and Spout. Note that the polished brass shower head screws onto the shower arm stub out. And, whether you are installing a new polished brass shower head or replacing an old one, always clean the pipe threads and apply a new pipe joint compound. You can also consider a Teflon tape or both in order to avoid leaks.
Installing a bath Surround
As you may know, a bath surround (commonly known as wall kit) is a straightforward way to provide a handsome, watertight and easy-to-maintain barrier around a tub or shower alcove. These surrounds may be put up over plaster, tile, drywall or any solid and flat wall. Well, there some surround kits on the market these days. Most kits contain either three or five pieces that overlap to are the cause of different dimensions. Also, these kits include instructions, that you simply should consider reading before you leave the store. When installing a bath surround, you may require an adhesive as well as color-matched caulk, so consider buying these from your store.
Installing a Bathtub Enclosure
Bathtub enclosures in the first place are a necessary finishing touch to a drop-in tub or even a whirlpool tub. So, if you're considering any of those kinds of tub, then consider installing an enclosure.
Installing a tub enclosure is actually not as difficult as it looks. You can build it even with a bit skill and of course with the proper materials. Consider the following:
Sizes and types
One of the most important considerations in terms of building a bathtub enclosure could be the type of the tub. In particular, the drop-in bathtubs which can be made specifically for bathtub enclosures have been demonstrated to be the best to build around. But, the whirlpool bathtubs will also be great for building enclosures around.
An enclosure is simply necessary to hide the river pipes on both the drop-in and whirlpool tubs. So, it is vital that when you consider building one, make sure to work around the plumbing and also the draining systems to prevent interfering with pipes.